Friday, August 31, 2012

The Swiss let loose in August!

Over the past 9 months I have come to the conclusion that for the most part the Swiss are a pretty conservative, keep-to-themselves culture. It is difficult to get to know them on a personal level, and they barely say hello, excuse me or show any other sign of common courtesy out in public. Not to mention some apartment buildings even have regulations on "quiet hours," and they are a society that believes firmly on no work (not even pulling weeds) on Sundays.
Crowds of people for Street Parade... not a typical day in Switzerland!
So to say they "let loose" during the month of August might almost be an understatement. Part of this I guess is due to the fact that schools only let out for about 5 to 6 weeks during the summer here, half of which falls in the month of August (don't feel too bad, kids get plenty of time off throughout the rest of the year for ski holidays and such) and as a result many parents take several weeks off of work (some are forced to as many daycares also shut down for this same time period!). Although many of these people go to the mountains or out of the country during this time, the people left in Zurich find many activities to keep themselves entertained and a bit more social then they are the rest of the year.

The month kicked off with the Swiss National Holiday on August 1. This is just like our 4th of July celebration, except with a twist. While we think of parades and BBQs, the Swiss find themselves enjoying a farmer's brunch on this holiday. We of course decided to partake with several of Steve's co-workers and made our way to a "city farm" in a suburb of Zurich and had brunch with 400 other people. Unfortunately we forgot to take any good photos, but we will get some next year as it was a lot of fun, good food and a definite must as next year Emma will be ready to test out the little petting zoo this family made available to children with some of their farm animals. It was fun to eat fresh eggs, potatoes, cheeses and jams outside in an partially covered barn. And at $30 per person for unlimited food this was an absolute steal by Swiss standards (normal brunches here run at least $50 - $80 per person). We enjoyed the rest of the beautiful weather that day at the lake with friends and perhaps next year Emma will be ready to take in the fireworks as well!


On our way to the parade (yes, open containers are legal here
every day of the year)
Although the Swiss National Day was a pleasant surprise of the Swiss culture, by far the more shocking surprise of the month was the Street Parade, which is an annual tradition that takes place on the 2nd Saturday in August. I guarantee you that this tradition is not so broadly embraced by the entire Swiss population. I am not sure how to entirely describe it... according to Wikipedia it is the most widely attended technoparade in Europe and is said to be a demonstration of freedom, love, and tolerance with reportedly a million people in attendance. The parade did not start until around 3 pm, but parties started all over the city earlier in the morning and lasted into the wee hours the following morning. Once again, like Fasnacht (Swiss Mardi Gras) it was a reason for many people to dress up in completely random costumes. We enjoyed the time pre-parade with some friends that lived near the parade route and made our way out to the route a few hours before it started so we could see all the crazy spectators. However, it quickly became apparent that once the parade started it was time for us to head home. Not exactly the place for children (let alone newborns) each parade float features a different band and dancers on the floats, and the music is played so loudly that many people wear earplugs! It was about the furthest thing possible from the typically conservative, quiet Swiss lifestyle. Yet one thing Swiss still remained true, as it is still technically a political demonstration it is completely peaceful and safe. While other European cities had similar demonstrations in the past such as Berlin, many of these turned violent and dangerous. Not the case in Zurich where people continue to be some of the most law abiding citizens in the world.

Emma got a feather to wear for the parade

Unexplained street parade costumes
Finally, on another recent weekend, although not near as big of a deal as the previous two events there was a "swim" held in the Limmat River, which flows through the center of Zurich. I had heard it was quite popular and had sold out. I assumed it was a competitive swim for roughly a half mile down the river. And perhaps it was competitive for a small group of people, but as we observed while we watched part of it that the majority of people simply "float" down the river. And not just that but they do so with rafts and duck inner tubes. Perhaps my favorite part of the day other than seeing hundreds of people bobbing down the river with their duckies was seeing them jammed onto the trams and buses with them going home after the swim!

People and a few duckies floating down the river
Aside from taking part in these Swiss traditions the past few weeks we have done a few other fun things as well. Emma played hostess to her first house guests, our friends Kristin & Jon, who made a quick stop in Zurich at the end of the European vacation. In less than 48 hours we managed to fit in a tour of Zurich, a beautiful hike overlooking the city, and encouraging them to eat and drink as much traditional Swiss food as possible!

Quick stop along our hike

Kristin & Jon eating meat on a hot stone... a fun Zurich dining experience where you cook your own meat - the bibs are to keep you from getting burned from the sizzling meat!
Last week Emma got in another overnight away from home, as we went to visit dad while he was working out of town in the beautiful Swiss resort village of Engelberg in the heart of the Alps. Overall the two hour train ride with just mom and Emma went pretty well, and it was well worth the night spent visiting dad, especially when mom was even able to get in a beautiful run along the base of the mountains. Although Steve has yet to go to a non-beautiful spot when he goes out of town for work, this one by far tops the list and if the view from his hotel room was this amazing all the time it would be hard to stop us from going every week for a quick visit.

View from Steve's hotel room in Engelberg!
And finally this past weekend we checked one more hike off our list. Unlike the others I didn't think this one was quite deserving of its own blog post. It was along the Rhine river in the northwest corner of the country and just a few miles from both the French and German borders. The second half was nice as it wandered along a tiny path down the river, but the first half was less than spectacular as it made it's way through part of the city of Basel and some more industrial areas. I am not quite sure how it qualified as one of the 32 top hikes in Switzerland, but we're guessing it did as it was meant to showcase a different region of the country. Or perhaps with all this amazing beauty we are just becoming a bit of hiking snobs...
  
The best part of our hike along the Rhine - going with friends Laura & Dana!
August was certainly a fun month for all of us, but we can't wait to see what September holds especially as it includes our first out of the country trip with Emma!

Friday, August 17, 2012

Don't step in that!


That seemed to be the theme of our hike last weekend as we wandered through what seemed like cow pasture after cow pasture! We were definitely surprised that a marked Swiss trail just meandered through what appeared to be private property. But then again many things are different here, and we'll just chalk it up to another thing that would never be allowed in the U.S. Regardless, we are very thankful that someone decided it was acceptable to put a trail there as the scenery was spectacular!




The Wildenmannlisloch trail is in the Appenzell region of Switzerland, which is about a 1.5 to 2 hour train ride east of Zurich. Our journey started and ended with cable car rides as the hike was at about 5,000 feet and situated perfectly with views of the valley below and still higher jagged mountain peaks above us. The cable car on the way up was far from the typical modern car we have grown accustomed to taking throughout the alps, it instead looked like the first one they probably ever constructed! We were a little worried that it was going to be a manual pull, but luckily it was run by electricity, otherwise it would have indeed been a long ride up!

Dad & Emma in the valley below ready to take the cable car to start the hike
 
Old school cable car
Beautiful views of the valley on the ride up the cable car

Dad & Emma riding in the old school cable car - can you believe we fit 5 adults & 2 kids in it?

Start of the hike... these signs are all over the country and they all look like this because there are so many different trails!
Some parts of the trail thru the field were simply marked by paint on the rocks
The hike took several hours and in addition to beautiful views, making friends with some cows, trying to avoid one cow that seemed slightly crazy, and weaving between presents left behind by the cows, we also got to explore some small caves along the way. It was yet again another amazing day of playing in the Alps with Emma!


View of the Alps from inside a cave

Just passing another cow...

Hiking in the alps with a 7 week old requres a few more things in the backpack and stops along the way, but no one minds it when this is the scenery around you!


The crazy cow! It was running faster than I've ever seen a cow run right before we shot this video (I actually don't think I've ever seen a cow run before)!

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Emma's first overnight!

View of both the church and castle (and some apartments)
A little over a week ago we headed out for Emma's first weekend trip away from home. We decided to go to the small Swiss town of Sion, which is about 2.5 hours southwest from Zurich. Sion is located in a beautiful valley in the Alps that is rich in history with an old castle and church. The region is also home to terraced vineyard after vineyard. However, one of the main reasons we decided to go there was that it was hosting an outdoor Irish musical festival that weekend and the headliner was to be a favorite band of Steve's.

Exploring old town Sion
We took the train down on Saturday morning and spent the afternoon exploring the town, tasting wine, and enjoying dinner outside at a restaurant downtown. We headed back to the hotel for a quick break and to get Emma changed and ready to go before we headed to the concert. As we made our way back out we saw that the west end of the valley had become filled with dark clouds and we could see sheets of rain coming down. The wind had already picked up and although it felt good on the warm day, we knew it was not a good sign as we had Emma in her baby bjorn and just two umbrellas to cover us. We walked for about 10 minutes before deciding that it was a bad idea. Although Steve had been looking forward to the concert for awhile, we recognized at that moment that our lives had changed and wasn't always going to be about what we wanted to do anymore. Our best bet was to head back to the hotel and skip the outdoor festival. However, once we got back to the hotel and saw the wind and heavy rain coming down I think we were both secretly happy that we had little Emma to thank for keeping us dry. We've already endured more than our fair share of wet excursions during our time in Europe!

Unfortunately Sunday morning wasn't much better weatherwise and we decided to skip any explorations of the castle or hikes through the vineyards and instead headed back to Zurich a little earlier than planned. Nonetheless it was still a fun, relaxing weekend away with our little family! Emma did great sleeping at the hotel in her stroller bassinet and she is becoming a regular on the train. It probably helps that we've started becoming better at figuring our her patterns and how to keep her fairly content during the rides. Yet, I'm not going to lie, it is nice that having a small baby helps deter people from sitting too close to us and often leaves us with a few empty seats near us when the trains are not as full! I can't wait for future weekend trips as a family and watching Emma explore her first year all around Europe!

Old church on a hill

View of the castle

Emma and I enjoying the train ride home!


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

The 32 best hikes in Switzerland... 30 more to go!

Starting point for the hike just outside
of the town of Kandersteg.
Shortly after Emma was born Steve found a list of the top 32 hikes in the country and decided that we are going to do all of them before we move back to the states. Lucky for us he decided that we don't have to complete the entire hike (some of them are 7 or 8 hours long)! I must admit I'm quite excited to tackle this next challenge as I feel like we are really going to see and experience the true Switzerland this way. We've already seen some amazing scenery in these first eight months from the cities we have visited, but I expect to see even more spectacular views on these hikes. So last week we checked hike number two off the list as we made our way to the town of Kandersteg.

The day we picked was warm by Swiss standards (low 80's), but little Emma at all of not quite 5 weeks was a trooper and continued her status as "super baby" by doing a great job on the 2 hour train ride (each direction) and the 2.5 hour hike. The hike took us up in altitude 500 or 600 meters along a glacial river, a huge waterfall, brought us face to face with some friendly Swiss cows, and finally ended at the beautiful Lake Oeschinen. And although this video clip doesn't capture all of the great views of the hike, I think it captures everything completely Swiss about it!


Here's a look at the rest of our hike in photos...

The trail followed this glacial river


Beautiful, huge waterfall!

No fences here - the cows go wherever they want!

A look back on the town of Kandersteg from part way up the hike


Cows with bells, a beautiful blue lake, and mountains.. could it get any more Swiss?

Steve was tempted to take a dip, but glacial lakes are not for the faint hearted even on the hottest of days!

Emma's first cable car ride - she rode her first gondola at 4 weeks old!