Friday, April 29, 2016

#TBT... Solo adventuring!

When in Belgium, eat waffles (thank goodness for that
morning run)!
I've decided to try and do a little catching up and share a few very overdue posts from travels taken over the last two years that have been temporarily overlooked amidst the chaos of daily life. Here's a look back at the first one...

Exactly a year ago I packed my bags (and only my bags) for a quick trip across the Atlantic to visit a great friend and her family from our time in Zurich. While Ann and I were only neighbors for a matter of months (a very busy few months for both of us at that), I could not be more thankful for that time that our paths crossed and I can only hope one day we will live closer together than opposite sides of the world again (unless of course that always means great travel destinations for each other). Anyways, after a year's stay in Zurich, Ann and her family moved to Dusseldorf, Germany, which provided me the perfect excuse to visit them as I had never been there. Steve and I initially contemplated making it a family trip, but ultimately settled on me going by myself. It was something neither of us do very often, but as the timing of the trip came at the end of a very busy time at work for me, it was the ideal short getaway for me to just relax by myself. Of course, when traveling halfway across the world for only a few nights it can be difficult to relax, but it can still be invigorating and good for the soul, which is exactly what this trip proved to be for me.

I miss this girl!
My plan was to make the best use of every single minute of time I had from Tuesday to Sunday to take the trip and I booked a flight leaving directly from work on Tuesday. I dropped off Emma at daycare before going to work (without fully telling her what was going on to avoid making her upset) and hoped my trip would go better than drop off when I forgot to bring her blanket and baby doll for nap time. However, for an instant I thought the whole trip was about to unravel while waiting at the gate and my name was called. I was told that our flight was delayed and it was almost guaranteed I would miss my connection and get stuck overnight in Philly. Fortunately though, my airline was kind enough to re-route me and get my luggage off and onto the plane at the neighboring gate within a matter of minutes so I could salvage my trip and stay relatively on schedule. The rest of the trip via Charlotte to Heathrow to Dusseldorf was seamless and just about as blissful as I had dreamed traveling without a toddler would be.

I was so excited and thankful to arrive in Dusseldorf the following day and to be greeted by Ann and the welcoming faces of her two sweet girls. While it had been about 18 months since we said goodbye to calling Zurich and Europe home, every familiarity of the German culture came racing back to me as soon as I arrived in the airport and it made me remember just how much I missed it. It was a short 15 minute drive from the airport to their home in a suburb of Dusseldorf and I was quickly treated like royalty staying in the "penthouse" suite of their gorgeous home. After spending some time just settling in and catching up a bit it quickly became evening and we headed to the nearby suburb of Rattingen for dinner where we met up with Ann's husband Dave for a typical German dinner of schnitzels and local brews. Ann and I were then spoiled for the first of many nights as Dave volunteered to take both girls home for bed so Ann could show me around downtown Dusseldorf at night. I enjoyed my private tour of the beautiful old city and we sat outside at a restaurant soaking in the evening with a few glasses of wine until it got late much too quickly.

I wish Naomi & Emma could live closer together - they would be such wonderful friends!
Whatever we were drinking was terrible, but it was the traditional drink in Dusseldorf that we could get at the "walk thru" window!
Beautiful view over the Rhein in the evening.
Thursday morning was a bit tough after having a lack of sleep the past two nights, but I was too eager to make the most of my time and knew well that there is never a shortage of coffee to be found in Europe. While Dave had to work most of the day, Ann and I took their youngest, Lucy, to old town with us for the morning after we dropped their oldest, Naomi, off at Kindergarten (more so the equivalent of U.S. preschool in terms of ages, except largely publicly funded and open to everyone).

We explored the old town more extensively by foot than we had the night before and meandered down the Rhein, a classic European fresh food market, St. Lambertus Church, enjoyed some yummy mandeltopf, German chocolates and quiche before heading back to their home to rest a little, skype with Emma (and Steve), and get ready for our drive to Bruges.

The streets of Dusseldorf along the Rhein river, oh how I had missed seeing the old German architecture.
The Rhein Tower
The drive to Bruges should have been under 3.5 hours, but ended up closer to 4 as we hit some heavy traffic (it was a three day holiday weekend). It was dark by the time we arrived to this medieval walled city and found our way to a great little Airbnb place in the heart of old town. In planning the trip Ann and I had debated for awhile what would make for a good weekend trip from Dusseldorf, and it quickly became clear to us that we were glad we picked this hauntingly beautiful city.

After unloading the car, Ann and I left Dave again with the girls to do a little late night exploring and of course enjoy a Belgium beer. While the city was relatively quiet with just small groups of people doing the same thing as ourselves, we had to laugh as we did see one full fledged tour group still going strong at 11 pm as the tour guide paraded down the near empty streets still carrying her flag to be sure her group could see her.

Loved this sign, and a pretty accurate description of Bruges.
The belfry (bell tower) of Bruges - the historical centre and prominent symbols of this medieval city.
Another beautiful Bruges church at night.
Once again Friday morning arrived quickly, especially as I was determined to get up early and get a short run in. The location did however encourage me to roll out of bed as I had found myself enamored with the city after just a few short hours exploring the night before. After seeing the sleepy streets it was fun to see them just awakening for the day as well. And as always, you never know what you will encounter when out running early in the morning, especially in different countries, and that day was no different as I got called a loser this particular morning!

After my run once we were all up and ready for the day to explore Bruges. We found our way to the Burg, the Basilica of the Holy Blood, the belfry, ate amazing waffles (they really do make them better), made our way into most every chocolate shop we stumbled upon, took a boat ride through the beautiful canals, had paninis, pasta and beer for lunch, found more chocolate shops, walked to the top of the belfry, ate fries (Belgium really knows a thing or two about food and drinks), saw the Begijnhof, admired beautiful horse carriages and swans, and ate more good food at dinner before feeling content about a well spent day in Bruges and needing to hit the road for the one hour drive to Antwerp.

Ready to explore Bruges in the daylight with little ones in tow!
Early morning view over the calm canal waters.
Burg Square
Basilica of the Holy Blood (under the crucifix is a man standing guard over the relic of what is said to be Jesus' blood). 
Provinciaal Hof (translation: a Gothic revived landmark) in the Grote Markt
A view around the Grote Markt...

View from the top of the belfry at a massive church in Bruges.
Gorgeous family in front of the belfry!
View along our boat ride in the canals
Many will argue whether the Swiss or Belgians do chocolate better. While I still don't know the right answer, I can assure you that the Belgians sure know how to have fun and make some gorgeous, whimsical chocolate displays.
Chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate.
Because who doesn't need some chocolate tools?
A lot of difficult decisions to be made there...
Loved the peace and tranquility to be found at the Begijnhof (the treehouses seen here were actually works of art as part of a temporary exhibit).
More canal views...
We arrived near dusk in Antwerp at another Airbnb apartment. It was a nice unit, but left us puzzled by the layout again. Our place in Bruges was a little odd with the non-adjacent, but private bathroom for the one bedroom apartment. However, this place in Antwerp was stranger. It was a 2 bed/1.5 bath unit. The funny thing is that the 1/2 bath was actually lacking a toilet, not a shower as one would assume. Making it even stranger was the fact then that to get to the full bathroom you had to walk through the master bedroom. And then to top it off was the fact that to access the beautiful patio one had to walk through the bathroom of the master bedroom! I guess this just goes to prove that it's not always possible to renovate 100+ year old buildings with modern designs... After noting all of the oddities of where we were staying Ann and I headed out again to do some late night exploring in Antwerp.

Saturday arrived and we set out to conquer Antwerp in less than a day as well. We explored the cathedral, Grote Markt, found more chocolate, ate as Belgian of a lunch we could get consisting of croquettes (fried food roll that can be filled with an assortment of things, but often includes shellfish, ground meat, potatoes or vegetables, cheese and a brown sauce), beef stew, fries and beer, saw the Vleeshuis, walked along the Scheldt river and enjoyed a good German favorite - apfelschorle before saying goodbye to Antwerp.

Cathedral of Our Lady and a monster french fry statue...
More views of the beautiful gothic Cathedral of Our Lady, which has never been fully completed after being started in the 1300's.

Another view of the cathedral, I just couldn't get enough.
Stunning gothic architecture
Antwerp City Hall was full of well-dressed brides and grooms this Saturday morning.
Just a few bikes...
And more elaborate chocolate displays...
This one is as silly as mine!
The two hour drive back to Dusseldorf was not all that different scenery wise from driving through many parts of the midwest except with signs in German. Upon arriving back at the Galiks home I was introduced to one of their favorite local pizza places, entertained by Naomi and Lucy's dancing to Frozen, and enjoyed my last evening staying up late talking with both Ann & Dave while treating ourselves to more chocolate than was good for us.

While I was not looking forward to Sunday as it meant my trip had come to an end, I couldn't wait to get home to Steve and Emma (note Emma did absolutely wonderful in my absence). I couldn't have asked for a better trip, but there certainly is something missing when I can't share my travels with some of my favorite people. Lucky for my favorite people though I packed carefully, which in this case meant I had an old pair of running shoes I could throw out if I was short of space for souvenirs. So what did I exchange an old pair of running shoes for you ask? Chocolate, a whole lot of chocolate, because that seems logical.

And just like that my solo trip was over. I discovered several new cities that one day I'll have to bring Steve back to, and I spent invaluable time with a dear friend. While some people might think my quick trip to somewhere so far away was a bit silly, it was just what I needed and so much more.

A very belated thank you again to my super hosts!

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Easter Holiday in the Hunter Region

Ready to go!
We don't do the whole sit still over a long weekend thing very well and in Australia both Good Friday and Easter Monday were holidays, so that meant a four day weekend! Yes, Morgan was only five weeks old or so, but that seemed old enough to get her out of the house for a few days. So we planned a short driving trip a couple hours north of Sydney along the coast. There are several different areas to explore, so we decided to book a hotel centrally located so we could spend each day exploring a different area.

We headed out early Friday afternoon after attending a wonderful Good Friday service. Somehow we managed to fit everything needed for three nights away with a 3.5 year old and 5 week old in the back of our new to us hatchback and we were off for the 2.5 hour drive. We expected the heavy holiday weekend traffic or a fussy newborn to be our only delays, but instead found ourselves at a rest stop with a dead battery after not fully turning the key to the off position in the ignition when we stopped to feed Morgan. Lucky for us we found a nice gentleman with jumper cables who helped us start the car (I am not sure he would have volunteered the knowledge that he had jumper cables though if it had not been for his friendly wife)!

So while we had hoped to be able to explore Newcastle, the second largest city in New South Wales, during the late afternoon and early evening our time was quickly gone due to our delay. We did however find a great spot along the ocean for dinner before calling it a night with hopes that Saturday would go more according to plan.

Waiting for dinner.
Someone thought it was funny to test out Morgan's bed and see if she still fit inside!
Saturday could not have been better. While it still took us awhile to get going in the morning (it always seems to be a process to get out the door of a hotel with kids), we found our way to beautiful Port Stephens by mid-morning. Port Stephens is full of several touristy beach towns with plenty of water activities, nice beaches and a variety of outdoor adventure activities. As it was early autumn we didn't know what to expect out of the weather in planning our trip so we didn't count on it being warm enough for the beach. While it ended up being a beautiful day to play at the beach we thoroughly enjoyed the other plans we made. Our first stop was the Tomaree Head Summit Walk. About a one kilometer walk to the summit, it was well worth the effort for gorgeous views of the area. We were very impressed with our little hikers as well. Emma managed her first real hike without being carried at all (especially impressive considering the number of stairs it involved) and Morgan settled right into the ergo for her first hike despite us both being more than a little sweaty by the end.

View from the top of the hike.
Me and my girls.
Gorgeous views over Port Stephens.
Family of four!
After the hike was a well deserved ice cream break before making our way to the Stockton Sand Dunes for Steve and Emma to try their hand at sandboarding. The sand dunes are part of Stockton beach, which stretches for over 30 km in length. It is an impressive sight with sand as far as you can see. Besides sandboarding and 4wd adventures, camel rides are a popular activity, leaving you feeling as if you are in an entirely different part of the world as you take in your surroundings. I had gone sand boarding one time before when I was in New Zealand during college, so I happily enjoyed a picture perfect afternoon enjoying the view with Mwhile Steve and Emma spent a couple hours out in the dunes. Emma has been asking about going sledding for quite awhile so this seemed like a pretty good substitute. And in typical Emma fashion, she hadn't been there long before she found another little girl about her age to become best friends with while they boarded down the dunes.

Sand as far as the eye can see!
What country are we in?

Someone's excited on the 4wd bus drive to the sandboarding hill.
Sand, sand and more sand.

Steve said she walked to the top by herself every time!
Getting ready to go down...

Taking a bow.
We could have done this all day.
We were all more than ready to find a nice spot for dinner by the time the sun was setting. We headed back to the town of Nelson Bay. When traveling with Emma in the past, eating at the best restaurants has never been high on the priority list (due to obvious reasons) and we certainly don't expect that to change anytime in the near future. However, we lucked out that night as we quickly scanned Tripadvisor's top 10 list and found our way to one on the list, Sandpipers. We got one of the only tables available without reservation, had a very friendly waitress and enjoyed a great dinner of fresh fish with a very compliant Emma and an awake, but calm Morgan who sat peacefully in her stroller throughout all of dinner (seriously, who is this child? Emma would never have let that slide as a newborn). By the time we made the 30 minute drive back to our hotel we were all ready to pass out and that's exactly what we did. You can be assured that you amply wore out everyone when no one wakes you up even once prior to 6 am.

Bedtime!
To Emma's delight, the Easter bunny found his way to our hotel on Sunday morning and then we later found him at the Hunter Valley Gardens. Yet, to our delight, Emma for the first time was able to tell us the real reason why we were celebrating Easter as she reminded us several times throughout the day that "Jesus was risen!"

No fear, only hugs!
Hunter Valley was about a 40 minute drive in the opposite direction from where we had gone the previous day. It is a well-known Australian wine region located in New South Wales. Our expectations were low to really enjoy any of the wineries. It was instead about letting Emma enjoy the Easter activities at the Gardens and for us to just enjoy the day as a family in a beautiful area of the country.

Emma thoroughly enjoyed the egg hunt in the "Storybook Gardens," which was a cute area designed for children with statues and characters from all of the most popular nursery rhymes. While our entire visit in the gardens was nice, I do find myself hard-pressed to believe I will cough up the $25+ per adult entry fee just to see some beautiful gardens anytime in the near future again.

Checking the tea party for eggs...
Just holding hands with Mary...

I was a little afraid of the bunny's teeth!
We had a very late lunch in Hunter village before making a stop at one winery. We contemplated for awhile where to go as we wanted it to have a good space for kids to run around. While we were relieved to find out at our earlier stop at the Visitor Centre that no winery would look at us like we were crazy for having kids in tow, there weren't really any that were all that child-friendly. So instead we opted for one with plenty of good outdoor space and a beautiful view of the valley. Audrey Wilkinson winery did not disappoint. And oddly enough of all the wineries we could have chosen, I realized as soon as we pulled up that it was one of three wineries I had visited when I did an internship in Sydney during college. Out of 150+ in Hunter Valley we could have chosen, this was it. While a beautiful setting, we are quickly realizing that Australian wines seem to still have a ways to go to catch up with many other famous wine regions in the world in terms of taste. Unfortunately with that goes the fact that importing alcohol is very expensive and heavily taxed, making it difficult to find a very extensive non-Australian selection at the local store. Oh well, that's not why we moved to Australia. So after the stop at the one winery we made our way back to the hotel at a decent hour, and to Emma's delight she was able to go swimming in the hotel pool before bed.

Monday morning came too quickly and we were sad to know that our short holiday was almost over. However, since we hadn't been able to explore the city of Newcastle on Friday afternoon we made our way back there for the first half of the day. We enjoyed a coffee, finally tried a staple item on the Aussie cafe breakfast menu - an egg & bacon roll (pretty similar to an Egg McMuffin at McDonald') and watching Emma blow bubbles in front of some monster waves at the beach before taking a walk along the popular Memorial Coastal Walk for some beautiful views of the coastline. As always, high on the priority list was a stop at a park for Emma before a lunch at a cafe on the beach (I could really get used to this eating by the beach on a regular basis thing along with this country's love of avocado, smoked salmon, amazing coffee and many other yummy fresh ingredients that you find around every corner at a new cafe or restaurant).

Simple pleasures at the beach.

View looking north on the Memorial Coastal Walk.
View looking back south.
Nobbys Beach near downtown Newcastle. The strong wind, waves and current made swimming inadvisable, but it still made for a great spot for lunch.
The trip home was much quicker and uneventful, and we considered the weekend to be an overall success. You're never going to accomplish everything you set out to do with two little ones in tow, but if at the end of the day most everyone is happy and you got to see and experience something new, then I think it was a good trip. We'll report back after our next long weekend trip in June!

Photo compliments of Emma.