As I reflect on 2017 and the title of our Christmas "letter" one thing jumped out at me - we are officially an old married couple. This year marked a pretty massive milestone, ten years of marriage. But it's safe to say that this year did a good job to stay relevant among a history of fairly eventful years. We are thankful though despite all the changes and new adventures that a few important things remain the same, our love for one another, our family's love and support for us, and God's constant presence in our lives.
It's safe to say that one area we fell short on was blogging in the second half of the year (we won't name any names). As a result, this year's adventures aren't as well documented as in the past (not yet at least), so here's a look at them.
The year began with a big celebration as we rang in the new year (well the 9 pm new year that is) from Chiang Mai, Thailand in the most memorable way with thousands upon thousands of massive paper lanterns, ours included, being released into the sky. It was a bucket list moment that we honestly didn't think we would ever experience, but are so thankful we did. While it could have easily been the highlight of a nearly three week southeast Asia trip over Christmas and New Years there were simply too many memorable moments from eating lunch in the sky over Singapore, breakfast with monkeys, visiting massive temples including Angkor Wat in Cambodia, spending a day taking care of elephants, to a day touring the stunning limestone islands near Phuket. The trip as a family of four was a massive adventure in so many (mostly good) ways.
Upon return to Australia we didn't stop to rest as we immediately moved house (as in that day) just down the road to a place where we have been so grateful for more space than we know what to do. Emma also got to fulfill one of her Christmas gifts with a daddy daughter date to the Opera House. We then finished out an eventful January with a short trip to Melbourne and to spend a few days driving the amazingly scenic Great Ocean Road. And while in Melbourne we made another bucket list check as we made a men's quarterfinal match at the Australian Open to watch Rafael Nadal advance and we completed our own personal "spectator grand slam."Don't worry I don't think any of our other months were quite as busy as January or we would have never made it through the year.
In February Morgan celebrated the big #1 with a party with a few friends and shortly thereafter learning to walk and really cause trouble. The rest of the Australian summer and early autumn were left enjoying Sydney beaches and getting Emma back into a preschool routine three days of the week this year. At Easter we made the trip back across the Pacific to visit family in both South Carolina and Minnesota for two weeks.
We found ourselves slightly better prepared for the "house cold" Australian winter by the time June rolled around and we celebrated both Steve and Emma's birthdays. Steve's was celebrated with a fancy lunch, literally in the middle of the harbour at the picturesque Fort Denison. Emma's birthday celebration was in no less scenic of a location at her favorite harbourside park with all of her closest friends at a pretty cute superhero themed party (we were thankful to break the two year running princess party tradition).
The beginning of July brought a long weekend trip to the Gold Coast (which is about a one hour flight north of Sydney) and allowed Abby to check off her marathon for the year and Emma's completed her first 2k race. While expectations had been kept somewhat low of the Surfers Paradise area, which is known for its skyscrapers along the beach and theme parks, we had a wonderful trip. Not only were the races successful, but we had a great time touring the area including Emma and Morgan's first experience at Sea World. I know as a parent one of my favorite moments was simply watching the two of them interact and embrace these new experiences together. July also marked the big 10th anniversary and we stole a night out to enjoy each other's company for more courses of food than I could count. There's still talk of another special outing to mark the occasion, but life is busy and maybe we'll fit it in before we celebrate the next one!
August was still a little cold, so we introduced American chili to some of our Australian and South African friends with a little friendly competition, and well the Australians beat out the Americans in cooking... We'll blame it on the other Aussie votes, they don't know what good chili tastes like.
Shortly thereafter we found out some pretty exciting news, that baby #3 was on the way. And when the time was right Emma and Morgan found out via scavenger hunt that resulted with Emma saying "but that's not treasure." Don't worry, she's still excited about becoming a double big sister and we are thrilled and terrified at her upgraded job responsibility. And just because we never like to make things dull Abby started a new part time job with a small local children's cancer charity within a few weeks of finding out she was expecting. It has brought a new routine to our house, but is all in all a pretty good balance in our life. It also brought us a new babysitter/nanny for the girls for those days and it didn't take long for us all to see it is one of their new favorite people. September finished with a trip to tropical north Queensland with friends for a fun getaway that included an adult only day snorkeling the great barrier reef and Emma holding a baby crocodile.
Since then the year has flown and sadly we experienced the loss of Steve's dad. We are forever grateful that Steve and Emma were able to make it back to the states to be with family and are comforted for the gift of God's grace and knowledge of his dad's love and trust in it. We look forward to our "see you soon" day.
There aren't many days left on the calendar this year so we are hurriedly filling them and Emma is counting down her last weeks at preschool. She will start Kindy here next February and she couldn't be more ready. Although we are thankful for the beautiful preschool she has embraced and thrived in over the past 1.5 years and will miss it and the friends dearly next year as well. However, in between school ending and starting, we eagerly await Abby's parents arrival for a visit and trip for all of us together to New Zealand over Christmas.
It seems as much as we attempt it this letter gets longer every year. It is probably safe to say next year won't be any different. We are excited and nervous for the changes ahead in 2018, but we look forward to kicking off the year by finding out whether we will be adding one more girl or a boy to our family. We are so grateful for the chance to watch Emma and Morgan's love grow this year - they simply adore one another. No doubt, their ability to comfort one another is truly a gift. We pray that gift multiples next year and pray that you too find that source of joy in your lives in the coming year.
It's always fun to have an excuse to be a tourist in your own town and do something new. So Steve's birthday seemed like a good reason to book a reservation at a place claimed to be in the top five waterfront restaurants in the world, the Fort Denison Restaurant.
For those of you not familiar with Sydney, Fort Denison (as it is now called) is a small island right in the heart of the Sydney Harbour. It was originally a small rocky island and has undergone several transformations and name changes as the purpose of the island has changed. According to its website it has been a fishing spot, prison, defence structure, navigational guide, tide gauge station, weather station, time marker and now a restaurant, event space and historical museum.
Of its three given names throughout history my favorite is definitely Pinchgut, evidently because it was believed the prisoners that stayed there received very little bread and water.
Unfortunately Steve's birthday now falls during the Australian winter (so much for that summer birthday), so it seems that we maybe could have picked a better time of the year to eat at a restaurant that is built to enjoy spectacular harbour views. We will have to go back in nicer weather, and perhaps sans children, when the sides of the tent are open and views are seamless. Nonetheless, despite some light rain on Sunday we tried to make the best of his birthday lunch.
Approaching Fort Denison on the ferry
To get to Fort Denison requires taking a specific ferry as the regular Sydney Harbour ferries don't service it. We opted to use Captain Cook Cruises, otherwise there are a few other options to get you there, just a short 10 minute ride from Circular Quay. Each visitor is also required to pay a special National Park entry fee, which was included in the ferry fee.
Approach as you disembark on the island
View towards the restaurant (in covered tent for the wintery rainy weather)
Upon our arrival it was straight to lunch - at least three of us were very hungry - and one was very tired! So while Morgan snoozed Steve insisted on Emma and I trying oysters for the first time. While I love most seafood, this has never been one that appealed to me. My pre-conceived notion was correct, and Emma agreed with me with one simple word - her favorite and quickly becoming Morgan's favorite, "yuck." Morgan eventually woke up to join the rest of us for a lunch... beef wagyu for Steve, prawn and crab linguini for me, fish and chips for Emma and Morgan. We all made it through the white linen lunch without incident from the girls (kids are actually welcome here though so don't hesitate to bring them - they even have a kids menu), except for the waitress that dropped a too full tray right next to me.
Emma staring down the oyster to make sure it was dead
Morgan looking all cute and polite with napkin bib and using a breakable plate.
I let her have my phone for 90 seconds and ended up with 48 selfies with every expression possible
As the rain had started to come down heavier we took them up on the offer for a free coffee (along with profuse apologies for the dropped tray) as we weren't going anywhere, obviously, we were on a small island and were subject to the regularly scheduled ferry times. But as we had an especially fidgety 15 month old we decided to venture out into the rain anyways to explore the rest of the island.
Morgan was excited to get outside and explore
The day was a series of bad photo attempts
Well this one turned out pretty well
Learning how to shoot the cannon
In position to protect the city
View of the entire top level
There was a small indoor museum in the enclosed building that told the story of the island and some of its uses along with a short film playing. But really, as you can see from the photos, most of the fun to explore and the even more impressive views, are above the building and restaurant on a grassy knoll.
Another failed photo
And another... good smiles, but a blurry photo
Morgan loves noses, so we'll call this the nose game!
Look at that view!
Morgan was unaffected by the light rain, but Emma wasn't as much of a fan, so she was ready to go when the ferry came into sight. And of course, right on cue as the ferry came to take us back to the "mainland" the sun started to come out.
We landed at Siem Reap International Airport late on Christmas Day. Seriously, Cambodia? On Christmas? With kids? I could have never dreamed this one up. There was something about getting off that airplane, walking across the tarmac, and seeing the Siem Reap International sign that made me feel like we had really gone off the grid. Or maybe not. All it took was one step inside the pristine airport to see a massive queue, signs giving last minute instructions on how to get our entry visa (aka way for the Cambodian government to earn some easy tourist money), and exchanging of US dollars at the counter (yes you read that correctly) to realize maybe this won't be so different from our familiar western ways.
Or wait, think again. After what seemed like nearly an hour to pay our money to get a pretty unofficial looking visa in our passport and collect our luggage, we exited the airport's sliding doors and witnessed the dichotomy that would be very telling of our next three days. Just like so many times when you exit the customs door to a mob of people holding up signs, there was a mob of drivers waiting to pick up visitors, but most of them didn't have cars waiting, instead, there was a big line of tuk tuks just behind the drivers.
We felt pretty posh with a driver to pick us up (seriously we never get one of those), but our hotel had sent a complimentary tuk tuk for us. Thankful, as it was late, we were happy for the extra help. Unfortunately, for the driver, I'm not sure he had been prompted that we were a family of four traveling southeast Asia for nearly three weeks. Luckily for us, even if he did mutter anything under his breath in Khmer, we didn't know and all we witnessed was a good sport who appeared to think the whole predicament was just as funny as we did. It didn't take Steve and him too long to arrange the luggage and we were off, him even with our backpack strapped to his chest. Ah sometimes I envy the simple one-suitcase adult only travelers I see, but seriously I guarantee you they don't have half the stories we do from their travels.
How many people does it take to pack a tuk tuk?
While the same can't be said for our two sleeping beauties (well Morgan was fully asleep, Emma was half asleep, half whining), Steve and I thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Siem Reap Christmas lights as we made the 15 minute ride into town. It seemed that some of the large hotels really enjoyed celebrating a holiday that I assume 99% of their staff does not celebrate. The ride was not too bumpy (we were back to driving on the right side of the road thanks to its roots as a French colony), we didn't lose any luggage, nor did we hit any of the feral cats, dogs, or motorbike drivers simultaneously driving and reading their smart phones, so I would consider it a success when we arrived at our small boutique style hotel on the outskirts of town, La Rose Blanche Boutique hotel.
Well, Steve and I enjoyed the ride!
Hotel Christmas light display
Christmas tree Cambodian hat style at our hotel
Someone was much happier at breakfast the next morning after we arrived.
At just over $50 USD a night, it was no doubt the nicest hotel I've ever stayed in at that price point. Well, let's be real I don't think I've ever stayed in a hotel that cheap, at least since I've been old enough to be the one (or married to the one) paying. But then again the cost of living is crazy low in Cambodia, most people live on something like less than $1 USD per day (although sadly that it is not a good standard of living, as much of the population lives in poverty).
Staff was friendly and helpful and it was a beautiful, small hotel. But it didn't take us long to be reminded that this was in fact Cambodia. And I don't mean that in negative way, just an honest way, that reminds me of how we are spoiled for choice, no shortage of supplies, and luxury items in the western world. Our room, while appearing clean and extremely luxurious for Cambodia did not have the 10 overstuffed pillows on the bed, two extra duvets in the closet and a surplus of towels in the bathroom. Instead we found one pillow on each double bed and when we asked if they had one extra (so Steve, Emma and I could each have a normal pillow, which we didn't think was an odd request) all they could find to come back with was one extra decorative pillow. Poor Emma was simply mind blown as to how they didn't have any more pillows.
Love how Emma became friends with everyone
And try explaining to her why we did not just run out of hot water in the shower, but pretty much all water. I have no doubt though that this is leaps and bounds better than hotel accommodations just a few years ago in Cambodia. We listened to countless stories from locals about how tourism has taken a strong hold in this country recently, especially in Siem Reap, since it opened to tourists less than 20 years ago after many years of war. And some impacts of tourism have been good and some bad. In many ways it reminded me of our visit to Croatia a few years back as we talked to people that had lived through war in their hometowns, lost family and friends, been forced to move, orphaned, left severely injured or left suffering from post-traumatic stress with nowhere to get proper help. It certainly makes you think about being a tourist in a different light.
After a good night's rest, a thick application of insect repellent and sunscreen, and a big American style breakfast option at the hotel we were ready for our first day of exploration. We were very happy with our decision to hire Asean Tour Guides for our two full days in the area. The first day we opted to just get a driver and an air conditioned van - what a luxury! The second day we would get a private tour guide as well. But to our delight our driver for the first day spoke very good English too and could tell us a lot about the area as we drove nearly an hour outside of the city to visit the temple of Banteay Srei after stopping to purchase the mandatory Angkor Pass, which allows you entry to all the temples in the vicinity.
One of the main thoroughfares in Siem Reap. Wide, unmarked and seemingly unregulated.
Despite having a comfortable van to ride in, it was still very apparent how terrible the road conditions were. While most of our drive was on a paved road (the same could not be said for many roads in the area), it was far from smooth. We were thankful for having the private car about 30 minutes in when we needed to stop for Emma having motion sickness from all the bumps.
I was impressed by Banteay Srei, but had no idea of what was to come.
We were not disappointed by Banteay Srei in the least when we arrived. Although considerably smaller from most of the other temples we would visit, we felt our jaws drop a little as we approached it. It was built in the 10th century for a Hindu god and constructed from a beautiful red sandstone, which made it ideal for carvings. The detail was superb and I immediately felt like I was on the sweltering hot movie set for an Indiana Jones movie (although that was actually to come the next day). The girls loved playing in all the doorways and our photographer in training got some good practice. We spent some time wandering the grounds as well and had our first of countless encounters with young children, this one a young girl just a few years older than Emma, trying to sell us something. It broke my heart to know that she had learned to speak quite good English for the purpose of selling things to tourists, but very likely has a bleak educational future otherwise. It was yet another first for Emma to try to comprehend why this girl was not at school. While Emma wanted to give her money to buy whatever it was she was trying to sell us, we told her the best thing she could do was simply talk to her to perhaps help her better her English skills.
Entry to Banteay Srei
So many doorways!
Thankful for happy go lucky girls.
Amazing carvings
Statues at Banteay Srei
Amateur photographer
Making her daddy pose for photos.
Lake near Banteay Srei
After spending a little over an hour at Banteay Srei we made our way back to the Landmine Museum. It was a small glimpse into the terror this country has seen and how many people continue to be injured and killed everyday by landmines that are still hidden throughout the country. It is reported that there are still potentially over 5 million undiscovered landmines.
Full of parts of landmines
We learned about one man, Aki Ra, who has personally made it a personal mission in his life to educate and help disarm the landmines - much of the museum stemmed from his work and sitting on display was his CNN Heroes award. Over 20 children even live on the property in the relief center, who otherwise had a dismal future, after being abandoned by their families or left orphans. I was initially a little concerned it may be too confronting for Emma, but it wasn't. I would highly recommend the stop to anyone in the area, only 30 minutes is needed to learn a small fraction of the truth of this country's history. And if you don't think you'll be visiting the area anytime in the near future I really enjoyed this quick read that gave me much more insight on our actions while visiting: Dear Travelers to Cambodia.
While we had originally debated also trying to visit one of the floating villages in the area, we decided to skip it, as we had heard many differing opinions on whether or not to go. We opted for lunch and while we asked to go somewhere local, but good for kids, it was clear that we got brought to the same restaurant in town that every other tourist must go to as well. Oh well, that's ok, like we've said before, we don't have high standards for where we will eat with kids in tow. If it appears clean, safe, and with edible options we will eat there! Double points when the wait staff clearly love children, especially those with light color hair. You want to hold my baby while I eat? Yes please! Just don't leave the room. I loved those trips to the Mediterranean when Emma was young and it seemed like someone held her for us at every restaurant we went to.
We had one high priority for the remainder of the day, swim in the pool. Steve added wear a Cambodian style hat at the pool to his list. And then last minute Emma and I added let's go to the local pottery school and learn how to make some pottery! We were so glad we made the decision to visit Khmer Ceramics Fine Art Centre in the city centre. Emma had a blast making five little pots with the help of her private teacher (all the pottery teachers were what appeared to be mostly deaf teenagers, it was amazing to see how Emma paid special attention to his instructions) while I watched and then she got to select one for them to dry and deliver back to the hotel the next day for us to take home. While the pottery was fun, so was a mother daughter tuk tuk ride to get there and back. Reminded me a little of playing pac-man... Especially when I realized that not all the cars around us had steering wheels on the left hand side (like one normally would if you are supposed to drive on the right side of the road), but instead some had them on the right hand side. Just when I got a little confused as to which side of the road we were really supposed to be on I realized everyone just drove everywhere. Problem solved!
Someone wants to go swimming
She is so cute when she knows she is getting to do something extra special!
Making her first pot
Mommy daughter date in Siem Reap
She was so proud of her creations!
We had an early dinner at the hotel. And like so many other restaurants we visited during our trip they offered a few western food specialties to Emma's liking (Morgan on the other hand actually lived largely off of sticky rice during the trip). However, just like every other time it seemed that the spaghetti or butter noodles took triple the amount of time to make that than the beautiful traditional dishes meat/vegetable/noodle/rice dishes took. Not that we had anywhere to be, except an early bed time. We were going to be getting up at 4 am the next morning. We do a lot of things with kids that make people call us crazy. Taking them to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, yes potentially crazy. Are we happy we did it? Absolutely.
Breathtaking.
Just as we had asked the night before, the hotel packed up some boxed breakfasts and we met our tour guide for the day at 4:40 am in our hotel lobby. I'm sure glad the driver knew where he was going as there weren't quite as many street lights as we are used to. The driver was able to take us to the edge of the Angkor Wat complex and it was about a 10 minute flashlight lit walk from there. We were far from the only ones doing the same thing and the tour guide immediately said it was going to be a busy morning as there were already quite a few people lining up around the perimeter pool in front of Angkor Wat. We secured a second row spot, which although initially disappointed we still had a pretty clear view of the outline of the temple that was very slowly coming to light and still put us far ahead of the 10 rows of people that slowly filled in behind us.
It didn't take long for Morgan to pass out in the ergo on me and Emma on the ground at our feet using our backpack as her pillow. Meanwhile Steve and I waited for about 45 minutes while the sun slowly crept over Angkor Wat. While the sun wasn't quite as radiant as we might have hoped, it was no doubt a phenomenal sight. Standing with likely over a thousand of people in sheer darkness, many different languages being spoken, all waiting to see this world famous sight rise out of the dark.
We weren't the only people waiting to see the sunrise.
Oh look, everyone's awake!
The backside of Angkor Wat
Many of the tour groups go straight inside to tour Angkor Wat since they are there, but our tour guide led us around to the backside of the complex where our van was waiting so we could make our way to some of the other nearby temples while there were fewer tourists there. We would come back later to Angkor Wat in the afternoon.
I know the photo doesn't look real - but it is!
First stop was Ta Prohm, most famously known as the setting for the Tomb Raider movie. It was built in the 12th & 13th century and over the years massive trees have grown out of the ruins, no doubt its most distinctive feature. We could have played games of hide and seek for hours on end, I'm pretty sure it was my favorite temple in Cambodia (although every one we visited had such distinct and amazing features that differentiated it).
A rather humble entrance to Ta Prohm
Wow.
The roots of this tree received a little reinforcement.
Size comparison.
A look around Ta Prohm.
I think this was already Morgan's second nap of the day at 7 am.
Another look around Ta Prohm, I couldn't get enough of it.
Our tour guide was the best!
So many areas to discover at Ta Prohm
From there I can't keep straight all the temples, walls and gates we drove by and through. I had absolutely no idea just how many temples were in such close proximity to one another. We drove through the gate to Angkor Thom, Steve and Emma walked along the Elephant and Leper King Terraces while I stayed with a snoozing Morgan, we all walked up and down the stairs of the Bayon Temple which is full of smiling and serene stone faces, and Steve and Emma climbed the extremely steep staircase of Ta Keo, otherwise known as the mountain temple. And we did all this before 11 am!
Part of the Elephant Terraces
One of many faces at the Bayon Temple
Playing peekaboo with the photographer
Another face of Bayon
Emma and Morgan in their matching elephant pants
Climbing Ta Keo
She made it to the summit!
We could have never made it through half of that on our own, nor would we have kept Emma motivated. Our tour guide was amazing with Emma. Patient, answering every question, and taking her hand and guiding her every step.
He even started carrying Emma at one point when she got tired!
We all had a lunch break to refuel our tank before heading back to the biggest temple of all, Angkor Wat. While the midday heat was intense, we were thankful that our plan had worked out well and it was not busy at all.
It was an absolutely phenomenal structure, so many stories, so many known and unknown things still about the temple. It was absolutely incredible to explore what is said to be the largest religious monument in the world. The entire site is over 400 acres, originally built for a Hindu God and later transformed into a Buddhist temple. I compared it to our visits of ancient places like Pompeii, the Roman Forum, the Acropolis, and Machu Picchu. While there is no way to compare them to one another, each so unique in their construction and purpose, Angkor Wat for me ranked right up there as one of the most stunning and intriguing. I think Machu Picchu still holds the top spot for me, but ask me on a different day and my opinion might change.
Amazing carvings throughout the perimeter walls at Angkor Wat
View back over the main entry to Angkor Wat
So much to see and learn
Inside Angkor Wat, one of the main towers
Taking everything in
One last family photo at Angkor Wat
No doubt by mid afternoon we had all reached our temple limit for the day. I never could have imagined we would see so much with two children in tow, but am so thankful we did. I love the days that Emma flips our 1000 Places to See Before You Die daily calendar and when she spots something that looks like a temple she asks if it is Thailand or Cambodia. I know she might not remember many of the specifics, but I'm pretty sure Steve and I will be eager to share our memories with her of this trip.
Although we could have all easily called it a night after we got another quick swim at the hotel pool. We made our way back into the city for what could be called an "expensive" Cambodian dinner and visited a night market. The tuk tuk driver definitely overcharged us, but honestly if by us paying $2-$3 extra it made a big difference to him that day, we were happy to do so.
The next morning we enjoyed one more tuk tuk ride back to the aiport. We took in the old and new Siem Reap one more time. And we observed the unregulated world (family of five traveling by motorbike) meeting the rapidly expanding tourist driven world (massive hotel on a dirt road) again and wondered how they will continue to mesh.
Family of four in a tuk tuk
Morgan loved it!
And our last glimpse of it all back at Siem Reap International was pretty fitting too. While we stood in an incredibly slow moving long check-in line, the entire rest of the terminal was completely desolate. Only here. Until we meet again, Cambodia.
