The Danube isn't really blue... The Wachau Valley

In case you were wondering, no the Danube isn't really blue like the title of the famous song. Not that we really expected it to be a distinct blue, but you never know as there are other rivers that run through both Switzerland and Austria that are a distinct shade of green. However, on our first stop on our trip along the Danube, the Wachau Valley, we did at least discover that the Danube is not the muddy brown of the Mississippi either...
 

Durnstein from the water

The Wachau Valley is located just west of Vienna and is made up of several small villages along what is said to be one of the most beautiful stretches of the river. We chose our base for two nights to be the sleepy village of Melk. Although it may be a relatively quiet small town, it is also famous for one of the world's largest monasteries, the Melk Abbey (also called the Stift Melk). We arrived in Melk in the early evening our first day after an eight hour train ride from Zurich and after eating dinner in the shadows of the Melk we called it an early night as we had a full day planned ahead of us.

Our one full day in the valley started by taking a boat cruise downstream to the most famous village of the region, Durnstein. On the boat ride we saw why the region is also well known for the wine it produces as we passed vineyard after vineyard on the bluffs surrounding the river. After about an hours ride we arrived in Durnstein, which is a picturesque town perched on the bank of the river and is where King Richard the Lion-Heart was held captive by Duke Leopold V. We were happy with our decision to spend the majority of the day in this beautiful spot that is best characterized by it's narrow cobblestone pedestrian-friendly streets. Because of the way it is perched on the river bank there was plenty of walking up hill simply to be done in the town, but we also decided to hike a few hundred meters above the town to some medieval castle ruins. Although not much remains from the castle today, the views of the Danube and surrounding valley were more than worth it.



Dad & Emma having fun on the boat



Mom & daughter on the Danube

View from the boat ride

Another castle and vineyards along the river

Looking over Durnstein and the Danube from the castle
remains above the town

Our lunch in Durnstein reminded me of one of my favorite things about Europe, all of the outdoor restaurants and cafes. There is no better way to eat on vacation (or really anytime) then to sit outside in perfect weather at a small restaurant occupying a prime spot of sidewalk real estate. And only one thing makes that even better, a little baby girl that happily plays and entertains herself throughout lunch!

After lunch we decided to take advantage of the gorgeous weather and spend the rest of the afternoon walking 4 miles or so along the Danube to the next large town of Krems, which marks the end of the valley. The town of Krems does not have much exceptional to offer, but the walk was enjoyable as it wandered through vineyards and several very small villages that each were likely only home to a few hundred residents. From Krems we hopped on the boat back to Melk for the night.

The following morning we were excited to finally visit the Melk Abbey, as it was the reason for choosing to stay in the town. It never ceases to amaze me how and why people decide to build things in the places they do, and this was certainly no exception. It is absolutely daunting the way it sits above the entire city. After the hike up another steep hill (Steve was quickly getting really good at pushing Emma's stroller uphill), we were able to tour the inside of the Abbey. Unfortunately, after being in awe of the enormity and beauty of the outside of the building, I would say we were actually a little disappointed with our tour of the inside. Don't get me wrong the inside of the building was beautiful with elaborate paintings on the ceiling, a huge library, and a beautiful church - we were most disappointed that we only got to see an extremely small fraction of the entire building. We're guessing that is because a large majority of it was simply residential and is filled with small rooms, but we're not entirely sure. Nonetheless the visit was worth it as there was once again amazing views of the valley to be had and beautiful gardens to visit surrounding the Abbey.

Looking up at the Abbey from the Melk city center

Courtyard inside the Abbey

Happy baby girl looking out over the Wachau from the Abbey

The Abbey towered above everything else in town

Hardly a spot in town that you could not see the Melk Abbey

With some time to spare before we hopped on the train to our next stop on the Danube, Budapest, we once again got in a great lunch at an outdoor restaurant where I tried a regional specialty, spinach strudel. And Emma couldn't help herself but to quickly become friends with people at the table next to us with her constant smiles and giggles. If only I could have bottled up that good mood for the rest of the day and train ride... Oh well, but I think Emma's mood upon getting ready to leave the Wachau Valley summed up the way we felt about it as well, it was well worth the visit!

Family photo in front of the Abbey